Last week on the radio program Fresh Air, Terry Gross announced that she’d interviewed Dan Koeppel, the author of Banana:The Fate of the Fruit That Changed the World . Hearing that, I almost turned the radio off.
“Really?” I wondered, “Does the world actually need another single-word-title history book?”
After the diva word, you’ll find that many of these have big, blustery subtitles. For Cod , it’s: “A Biography of the Fish That Changed the World,” while Rum is “The Epic Story of the Drink That Conquered the World.” One begins to wonder if there’s a food, drink or object that didn’t change the world.
Despite my weariness of the big-big little history book, I listened in on Fresh Air for a few moments and — of course — got sucked in. Terry Gross is some talker. And Koeppel’s single-subject discussion was actually pretty interesting. Bananas did change the world for many people.
For one thing, I didn’t realize that the banana (now grown across most of the world’s tropical zones) originated in Southeast Asia. I also didn’t know that the banana our grandparents knew and loved (the Gros Michel, which was said to be terribly tasty and easy to ship) essentially died out due to a fungal disease. Can you imagine this world in which the standard banana was completely different?
The familiar long, slender, fragile banana that appears in every grocery store across the U.S. is the Cavindish banana, which was thought to be so bland and delicate that Koeppel said the Chiquita banana company nearly went out of business because they resisted switching over to Cavindishes as the Gros Michels whithered away.
As it turned out, those bland, fussy Cavindish bananas were quickly adopted by the banana-eating public and faster than you can say “Yes, We Have No Bananas,” the tasty Gros Michels were all but forgotten.
Much as I enjoy a nice Cavindish, that seems like a sad turn of events for all of us. Because every Cavindish is essentially a clone of every other Cavendish and our appetite for them is seemingly insatiable (Koeppel says Americans purchase more bananas than they do apples and oranges combined), it seems like it was only a matter of time before another bananapocalypse. (I think we’ve already observed the dangers of crop monoculture.)
Indeed, Koeppel says that banana fungus is on the move, and it’s really only a matter of time before American banana crops are affected. Scary thought.
Thankfully, there are other bananas in the world. The only problem is, they’re not widely cultivated, so if the Cavindish goes offline, it’ll be a long, banana-less age in which scarcity ensures that banana muffins are served in only the finest of restaurants, and things like banana splits, bananas foster banana smoothies could be replaced with other foods.
Unfortunately, while Koeppel’s discussion of ruthless banana barons, scummy produce marketing practices and impending fungal doom piqued my interest in his book, it also made me crave bland old Cavindish bananas in a big way.
One of my favorite banana recipes (although one I don’t often make — for obvious reasons) is based off of the banana pudding recipe from Bill Smith and Lee Smith’s Seasoned in the South.
I’m usually not much for meringue, so I leave that off and just go with a sprinkle of cinnamon as garnish.
If you’ve never made pudding that wasn’t made from a box, I think you’ll taste a big difference in the pudding recipe below. Homemade pudding isn’t difficult. If you make it with good ingredients, it’s a seriously tasty tribute to the end of the Cavindish era.
Cavendish Banana Pie (Serves 4-6)
2 cups half & half
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
3 Tbsp cornstarch
2 large eggs
1/2 cup sugar
4 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut into 1" slices
1/2 box (6 oz) vanilla wafers
2 medium-sized ripe bananas
Dash ground cinnamon (optional)
Dollop fresh whipped cream (optional)
Heat 1 1/2 cups of the half & half with the split vanilla bean in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat until it just steams and begins to form a skin, about 5 minutes. Do not boil.
Meanwhile, whisk the cornstarch into the remaining 1/2 cup of half & half to dissolve it. Beat in the eggs.
Pouring in a slow stream, whisk the hot half & half into the egg mixture. Pour the mixed liquids back into the heavy-bottomed pot, returning the vanilla bean.
Cook the liquid over medium-high heat, whisking constantly. After 3 to 5 minutes, the custard will begin to thicken. Continue to stir for a few minutes more, being sure to move the whisk over the entire bottom of the pot.
When the surface begins to steam a little, gradually stir in the sugar. Be careful, because this will make the custard more likely to burn on the bottom.
Remove the pot from the heat and beat in the butter. Stir constantly to help the butter to absorb. This will temporarily thin the custard. Discard the vanilla bean.*
Pour a cup of the hot custard into a deep-dish pie pan or an 8" square pan. Line the bottom and sides with vanilla wafers. Slice the bananas over the cookies, then layer any remaining wafers over the bananas. Gently pour the rest of the custard over the cookies and banana slices.
Cover, lightly, with plastic wrap, and chill for two hours or overnight. Serve with a sprinkle of cinnamon and fresh whipped cream, if desired.
* Alternatively, save the pod to make vanilla sugar. Just dry used vanilla pods and add to a roomy mason jar that’s filled 3/4 full of white sugar. Keep the jar lidded and shake it every once in a while to scent the sugar with vanilla. Use in desserts.